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Eildon Hills in Winter,
the remains of a hillfort
stand out in the foreground
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When the glaciers
retreated 12,000 years ago plants quickly colonised bare ground and
as trees covered the land, animals and people arrived.
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Hut reconstruction at
Clatterigshaws,
Galloway Forest Park
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Glimpses of
the past can still be seen today; 10,000 years of human activity
are imprinted upon the landscape. Over time, cultivation has erased
most of the traces of early farmers' homes but on the treeless hills,
many prominent Iron Age hillforts remain, providing wonderful views
of the surrounding land. Remnants of the forts' defensive encircling
earthwork ramparts and ditches can still be seen, sometimes with
traces of round houses inside, more than 2,000 years after they
were built.
Between the
late 1st and early 3rd centuries AD, the Roman army stationed garrisons
throughout the Southern Uplands, during those periods when the northern
frontier of their empire extended beyond Hadrian's Wall into the
Forth-Clyde area.
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Cairnholy in Galloway, the site of two
impressive chambered cairns
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After the Romans,
Britain broke up once more into small kingdoms which were threatened
by invading Scots and Angles. The Scots of Dalriada in Ulster eventually
dominated the western Southern Uplands and the Angles of Northumbria
the east, eclipsing native British power. Classical knowledge was
preserved in Christian monasteries, such as St Ninian's house at
Whithorn and at Old Melrose, associated with St Aidan and St Cuthbert.
During the 9th -10th centuries, Viking invasions weakened the Anglian
dominion and by the mid-11th century Scotland and England had emerged
as separate kingdoms on either side of the Solway-Tweed line.
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Melrose Abbey
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The 12th and
13th centuries were, in general, a period of peaceful prosperity.
Between 1124 and 1153 David I, King of Scots, sponsored great abbeys
at Dundrennan, Melrose and Kelso as sources of spirituality and
learning, granted lands to Anglo-Normans, who built the Scotland's
first castles and introduced the feudal system, and he established
Royal burghs as centres of trade, industry and local government.
The years around
1300 were dominated by the Wars of Independence. Two Ayrshire men,
Sir William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, were heroes of this age
and both campaigned in the Southern Uplands. Independence for Scotland
was won but had to be sustained through more than two and a half
centuries of intermittent warfare with England.
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Bothwell Castle, South Lanarkshire owes its origins to Walter of Moray who acquired the Lordship of Bothwell in 1242 and created the castle as a
fortified residence.
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Few Norman castles
survived the 14th century but numerous tower houses and pele towers
were built in the 15-16th centuries, when 'Border Reivers' were
a constant menace, rustling livestock, pillaging, kidnapping and
extorting protection money. The most notorious reiving clan, the
Armstrongs, used strongholds like Langholm Castle as a base to attack
Scots and English alike. In 1552, to discourage such reivers, the
Scottish and English kingdoms finally agreed the line of the border
within the notorious "Debatable Land" and marked it with
the 'Scots Dyke', an earthwork near Canonbie.
After the Union
of the Crowns in 1603, the borders settled and tower houses were
abandoned for mansions and stately homes, reflecting the growing
wealth of minor aristocracy. However, further troubles erupted in
the 17th century when Covenanters rebelled against the impositions
of the English Bishops. The many martyrs' memorials throughout the
Southern Uplands reflect the violence of those 'killing times'.
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New Lanark World Heritage
Village builtby social
pioneer Robert Owen
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By the 18th
and early 19th the Agricultural Revolution had completely altered
the landscape with the enclosure of farmland, intake of moorland
and marsh, plantations of trees and massive rebuilding.
The Industrial
Revolution was represented in the Southern Uplands by the woollen
and textile industries in towns like Walkerburn, Hawick, Galashiels
and Innerleithen. One of the world's most famous mills is at New
Lanark, where in 1785, cotton spinning mills and houses for the
workforce were built close to the famous falls of Clyde. In an age
of 'dark, satanic mills' the owner, Robert Owen, was a social pioneer,
providing decent homes, fair wages, free health care and a new education
system for villagers, that included the world's first nursery school.
The Industrial
Revolution improved coal mining through pumping engines and other
mechanisation. Railways were developed to transport the coal mined
in Ayrshire, Lanarkshire, Nithsdale and the Lothians.
"Wha
for Scotland's King and law
Freedom's sword will strongly draw
Freeman stand, or freemen fa',
Let him on wi' me!"
Robert Burns,
'Bruce's Address before Bannockburn
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Reiver Monument at Hawick
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Covenanters graves in Nithsdale
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Dalserf Church in South
Lanarkshire
dates back to 1655, the Tev John
McMillan known as the 'last covenanter'
was kirk minister here.
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